On this episode we discuss Newfoundland route setting with our guest and dear friend Julia Bruce-Robertson! Route setting is when climbing gyms change the climbs on their walls. As the 3 hosts of the podcast are route setters, setting is near and dear to our hearts. In this episode we introduce ourselves as setters, explain what setting is, how the two local gyms run setting programs, the gym grading systems, and more! This is what we hope will be the first of several route setting conversations.

Julia Bruce-Robertson is part of the core setting team at The Cove along with Joel, Thatch, and Daniel. Julia is also the head route setter at Wallnuts Climbing Centre, a climbing coach, a climbing competition organizer, an artist and graphic designer, and otherwise a super rad person!

Episode Timestamps

(00:00:00) Episode intro & introducing the setting team's origin stories

(00:08:58) Hiring/becoming setters

(00:10:35) What is route setting?

(00:13:15) Aesthetics and artistic inspirations in setting

(00:17:07) What are volumes?

(00:19:29) Planning for route setting

(00:24:55) Creative restraints and gym specific considerations for planning

(00:28:00) Setting lead at Wallnuts

(00:31:35) Setting top-rope at Wallnuts

(00:37:59) Power tools, bolt-on holds, screw-on holds, helmets, and ladders

(00:42:28) T-nut deep dive and going behind the walls

(00:47:13) Old holds, hold wear-and-tear, and hold colour

(00:50:25) Monochromatic setting

(00:53:20) Grading systems at Wallnuts and The Cove

(01:02:04) The V-scale and why we don't use it in our gyms

(01:06:08) Differences between bouldering at local gyms

(01:08:22) Re-adjusting for shifting difficulty within gym grades

(01:14:23) Daniel's closing questions: What is a favourite moment and a challenging moment in route setting?

(01:21:15) Who are our NL local setters?

(01:26:07) NL route setting part 2?